Agra

The Taj Mahal attracts people from all over the world. It is one of the 7 wonders along with the Pyramids, the Grand Canyon, the Eiffel Tower, the Sydney Opera House and the Houses of Parliament, but it's so much more beautiful than the others: as it was built for love. Only when you get there, you will realize why the Taj Mahal is the Taj Mahal, un-paralleled in beauty and magnificence.

Agra is accessible from Delhi by Road, Air and Rail. Government has laid out wonderful roads to reach Agra and Jaipur from Delhi, and this is called the Golden Triangle. One can reach Agra from Delhi by road in 4 hrs. I happened to be in Delhi for a few days in May 2003 and I knew that 1 day was enough to visit the Taj Mahal. I was traveling with my brother. We hired a cab, and left Delhi in the morning. Our agenda was fixed - Taj Mahal, Sikandra and Agra Fort in one day.

Agra used to be the capital of the Moghul rulers who ruled India from the 15th Century to the 18th century, until the time of Bahadur Shah Zafar. The Taj Mahal was built in 1631, by Shah Jehan in memory of his dear Wife Mumtaj Mahal, who died during the birth of their 14th child. It took 20 yrs and 20,000 craftsmen to construct the Taj Mahal. There are several gory stories attached as well, apart from the romantic angle. It is believed that Shah Jehan got the best of the craftsmen for the job, but, after the job was done, the hands of the craftsmen were cut off, to ensure that they did not replicate the same elsewhere. How sadistic !! The architect was an Iranian and the original plan also included a Black Taj Mahal on the other side of the Yamuna , like a mirror image, which would house Shah Jehans tomb. But, the black one never got erected.

Shah Jehan chose this place on the bank of the river Yamuna, for a couple of reasons. The river curved in this place, and hence in the small island that was created, he wanted to make the Taj. The reflection of the building in the river would be a breath taking view. The river water was required for the gardens and the several fountains that were to be there. And, Shah Jehan could see the Taj Mahal from his fort in Agra. During the latter part of his life, Shah Jehan was imprisoned by his son, Aurangzeb, who emerged successful in the war of succession. Shah Jehan was imprisoned in a small room in his fort, from where he could see the Taj. After his death, he was buried near Mumtaj’s grave, and therefore this is the only asymmetrical part of the Taj. Shah Jehan wanted the Black Taj to be his tomb.

As all of us know, the Taj Mahal has a main dome in the center with 4 minarets. There are two mosques on both the sides, but only one of them is used now. The Entire complex is on a huge marble platform. There is a beautiful garden in front of the Taj, with several waterways and fountains. The faces of the walls have intricate designs with precious stones embedded in them. The Koran is engraved on it too, and it is done in such a way that all the verses are readable by a man standing in front of them on the floor, and they look like they are of the same size, no matter how high on the wall they are engraved.

There are lots of photographers and guides in front of the complex. You can get very fancy photographs of yourself, holding the minaret of the Taj in your hand and stuff like that, for Rs. 50 and you will get your snap developed immediately. There is bench in front of the Taj, most tourists get a snap of themselves in front of the Taj Mahal, even Princess Diana and Bill Clinton got themselves photographed this way.

One needs to be careful with touts in Agra and their attitude. They cheat you and you do not have a choice. You can take a horse cart from the starting point of Taj Mahal, after which no taxi or any other vehicle is allowed. Hence, you are at the mercy of these people. If you argue about the prices, within no time, you will find that you are surrounded by the locals who look nothing less than thugs.

There are vendors who will show you marble inlayed boxes, shawls, carved stuff, leather whips carpets and all kinds of things. They will tell you that they are all original. A marble carved and stone inlayed box, its first quoted rate would be Rs. 50 and in the end, you will be able to buy it for Rs. 15 if you bargain enough.

The other places worth seeing in Agra are the Agra Fort and Sikandra – the place where Akbar is buried. Akbar started constructing the fort, but additions were made by every successor. Shah Jehans additions were in Marble and you will see his marble obsession. But, I will agree that his buildings are most beautiful, because on white marble background, the inlay designs look magnificient. Inside the Agra Fort complex are Jehangir Mahal, Jodha Bhai Mahal ( Jodha Bai was Akbars Rajput Wife ), Moti Mahal, Shah Jehans Khas Mahal, Diwan – e- Khas ( Hall for Private Audience ), Diwan – e- Am ( Hall for Public Audience ) and others. But, this fort is on flat land, and hence there is no breathtaking view around it. There is a moat with huge entrances. There is lot of restoration work going on to keep the place intact for posterity.

Sikandra – Akbar Tomb was designed by Akbar, but was executed by Jehangir, his successor. The building is made of Red Sandstone and has intricate designs on it. It has a mosque, garden with deers and peacocks, and has a huge entrance. It am told that his entrance resembles the Buland Darwaza in Fatehpur Sikri. Surmounted by four minarets, it is overlaid with colored tiles that bear inscriptions from the Koran. Inside the vaulted roof was once done in gold and blue to resemble the heavens. (Only a single section has been restored but it is enough to suggest the beauty of what once was.) A chapter from the Koran runs around the cornices.

Akbar lies in a subterranean crypt inside the mausoleum across from an alabaster tablet inscribed with the 99 names of Allah. A single ray of light illuminates the sepulchre which is otherwise cloaked in a quiet darkness. This place is beautiful, and don’t miss it even if you have a shortage of time.

As Agra was the capital city of the Mughals, I am sure there are several others places, worth a visit. Agra is a very filthy town, and if not for the Taj Mahal, this place is not worth a visit. We had seen the most important places, and as it was already 6 pm in the evening, it was time to leave for Delhi. We knew leaving at 6 pm, we would reach Delhi at 10 pm, and if we delayed any further, it was going to more trouble. We bought a small marble box with a intricate inlay design for my mom. The drive to Delhi was smooth as the road was good. We had dinner in a dhaba on the way.

Getting There :

Air : 40 mins flight from Delhi

Road : 4 hrs drive. 203 kms.

Train : Delhi Agra Shatabdi is the best option. But, Agra is well connected from all the nearby cities. Getting to Agra is never really a problem.

Best time of the Year : Summers can get hot and winters can get unbearably chilly. Best time to visit is between March to October.

Trip duration : 1 or 2 days.

Accomodations : If you are going to Agra from Delhi on a single day road trip, then you can get back to Delhi in the Night. But, if you wish to say there in the night, you can stay at these places.

Taj View, Man Singh Palace, Amar Vilas, Trident, Holiday Inn are places one can stay in.

The government Of India Tourist Office - 191, the Mall, Agra, Uttar Pradesh, India. Tel. - +(91) - 0562 - 363959.
UP State Tourism Development Corporation - Tourist Bungalow, Raja-ki- Mandi, Agra, Uttar Pradesh, India. Tel. - +(91) - 0562 -350120
Tourist Information Center - UP tourist office, 64 Taj Road, Uttar Pradesh, India Tel. - +(91) - 0562 - 360517
Tourist Information Counter - Agra Cantonment Railway Station, Agra, Uttar Pradesh, India Tel. - +(91) - 0562 - 368598