Mahabalipuram
Being a Chennaite has its own advantages. The beach side is free and one can get there for any reason – birthday get togethers, to celebrate a new job or sulk about not having got good marks in the exam. The beach is just open to all.
And, Mahabalipuram is just about 43 kms away. Whenever any relatives or friends visit us from other cities, we take them to the beach and to Mahabalipuram. The drive on the East Coast Road, is by itself a very refreshing experience.
Mahabalipuram is on the East coast of India and it is a World Heritage Site, and you will know why when you get there.
Mahabalipuram are shore temples, a group of monuments by the sea. It is not just one structure. The group contains Rathas or chariots, mandaps or carved caves, and beautiful carvings on vertical rocks and bas reliefs. All these form the Mahabalipuram complex.
These temples were built by the Pallava King Mahadra Verma Pallava in the 7th Century.
There are several caves in the complex. The Varaha cave is independent carved structure and houses the carved statues of Varaha ( Boar ) and Vamana ( Dwaft ) – two incarnations of Lord Vishnu.
There is a cave for Dharmaraja Yudhisthir, which is separate.
There is a cave for Mahishasura, and has carved panels and bas reliefs with scenes from Hindu mythology.
The Krishna mandap is set aloof and has on it, carvings of Lord Krishna lifting the Govardhan Hill. The bas relief here, is over 27 meters long ( may well be the largest bass relief in the world ) shows the image of Lord Krishna lifting the Govardhan mountains with his finger. This also shows the river Ganga descending to Earth. On this relief are two beautifully carved elephants, beautiful carved women with clothing style of those days, there is also a carving of a cat, trying to meditate with its eyes shut with several mice running around it.
The Pandava rathas or Chariots are by the shore. There are 5 in all, rathas for Arjuna, Dharmaraja, Draupati, Bhima and one ratha for Nakul and Sahadeva.
The most beautiful temple of this complex is the Shore temple, which has 3 temples. There is a temple for Lord Vishnu which is in between 2 Shiva temples. The compound of this temple has carved Nandi’s.
The sculptures in this temple are not finely carved with intricate designs like the Hoysala temples of Karnataka. That is because of the nature of the stone on which the temples are carved. Hoysala temples are made of soap stone that are easy to carve and it is easy to draw out intricate patterns with them. But, the stones at Mahabs and Tanjoreare very hard and hence the statues do not have a smooth finish.
Though these temples are beautiful, in my opinion, they are not maintained well. In comparison to other heritage sites like Hampi and Tanjore that are also in the south, the maintenance at Mahabs needs a lot of improvement.
There are several goats in all the temple complexes. Be prepared to inhale the smell of goat shit and walk through their droppings while climbing the hillock to the Shiva temple. The view from the shiva temple, which is at a higher altitude is breathtaking.
The other important sites here are Krishna’s butter ball. It is a big round boulder, just standing on a large rock. Is it amazing how it is just standing there. A walk to the lighthouse is good, coz the views from there are beautiful.
There are a lot of places around Mahabalipuram that one can visit. They are Crocodile bank, Kanchipuram – the City of temples, Pondicherry and there are several resorts by the sea, where one can stop by for break fast or for Lunch.
Moonraker restaurant in Mahabalipuram is very popular among the localites and among the tourists. The best sea food is available here.
At Mahabalipuram, carving and sculpting is the main occupation of people. One can see many artisans making beautiful sculptures in their work shops. These pieces are expensive, but they look really beautiful. One can pick up several pieces of these for give aways.
There are several fishing hamlets around Mahabalipuram. If you wish to go for a catamaran ride, all one has to do is befriend a local fisherman. It must be remembered that it is not too safe. There is no safety equipment and no floating jackets. You will just be tied to the catamaran, and off you will go with the fisherman. As the catamaran glides over the waves, 90% of the time, you will find yourself in water, with only your shoulder sticking out. A ride for 1 hr can cost Rs. 100, but the experience is well worth it.
Getting there
Road : Mahabalipuram Is well connected by Road from Chennai and Pondicherry. It takes 1 hr to reach Mahabs from Chennai, and 2 hrs to reach from Pondi. There are several buses available to reach Mahabs.
And, Mahabalipuram is just about 43 kms away. Whenever any relatives or friends visit us from other cities, we take them to the beach and to Mahabalipuram. The drive on the East Coast Road, is by itself a very refreshing experience.
Mahabalipuram is on the East coast of India and it is a World Heritage Site, and you will know why when you get there.
Mahabalipuram are shore temples, a group of monuments by the sea. It is not just one structure. The group contains Rathas or chariots, mandaps or carved caves, and beautiful carvings on vertical rocks and bas reliefs. All these form the Mahabalipuram complex.
These temples were built by the Pallava King Mahadra Verma Pallava in the 7th Century.
There are several caves in the complex. The Varaha cave is independent carved structure and houses the carved statues of Varaha ( Boar ) and Vamana ( Dwaft ) – two incarnations of Lord Vishnu.
There is a cave for Dharmaraja Yudhisthir, which is separate.
There is a cave for Mahishasura, and has carved panels and bas reliefs with scenes from Hindu mythology.
The Krishna mandap is set aloof and has on it, carvings of Lord Krishna lifting the Govardhan Hill. The bas relief here, is over 27 meters long ( may well be the largest bass relief in the world ) shows the image of Lord Krishna lifting the Govardhan mountains with his finger. This also shows the river Ganga descending to Earth. On this relief are two beautifully carved elephants, beautiful carved women with clothing style of those days, there is also a carving of a cat, trying to meditate with its eyes shut with several mice running around it.
The Pandava rathas or Chariots are by the shore. There are 5 in all, rathas for Arjuna, Dharmaraja, Draupati, Bhima and one ratha for Nakul and Sahadeva.
The most beautiful temple of this complex is the Shore temple, which has 3 temples. There is a temple for Lord Vishnu which is in between 2 Shiva temples. The compound of this temple has carved Nandi’s.
The sculptures in this temple are not finely carved with intricate designs like the Hoysala temples of Karnataka. That is because of the nature of the stone on which the temples are carved. Hoysala temples are made of soap stone that are easy to carve and it is easy to draw out intricate patterns with them. But, the stones at Mahabs and Tanjoreare very hard and hence the statues do not have a smooth finish.
Though these temples are beautiful, in my opinion, they are not maintained well. In comparison to other heritage sites like Hampi and Tanjore that are also in the south, the maintenance at Mahabs needs a lot of improvement.
There are several goats in all the temple complexes. Be prepared to inhale the smell of goat shit and walk through their droppings while climbing the hillock to the Shiva temple. The view from the shiva temple, which is at a higher altitude is breathtaking.
The other important sites here are Krishna’s butter ball. It is a big round boulder, just standing on a large rock. Is it amazing how it is just standing there. A walk to the lighthouse is good, coz the views from there are beautiful.
There are a lot of places around Mahabalipuram that one can visit. They are Crocodile bank, Kanchipuram – the City of temples, Pondicherry and there are several resorts by the sea, where one can stop by for break fast or for Lunch.
Moonraker restaurant in Mahabalipuram is very popular among the localites and among the tourists. The best sea food is available here.
At Mahabalipuram, carving and sculpting is the main occupation of people. One can see many artisans making beautiful sculptures in their work shops. These pieces are expensive, but they look really beautiful. One can pick up several pieces of these for give aways.
There are several fishing hamlets around Mahabalipuram. If you wish to go for a catamaran ride, all one has to do is befriend a local fisherman. It must be remembered that it is not too safe. There is no safety equipment and no floating jackets. You will just be tied to the catamaran, and off you will go with the fisherman. As the catamaran glides over the waves, 90% of the time, you will find yourself in water, with only your shoulder sticking out. A ride for 1 hr can cost Rs. 100, but the experience is well worth it.
Getting there
Road : Mahabalipuram Is well connected by Road from Chennai and Pondicherry. It takes 1 hr to reach Mahabs from Chennai, and 2 hrs to reach from Pondi. There are several buses available to reach Mahabs.
Air : Chennai is the nearest airport
Best time : As Mahabs is by the coast, it is sultry and hot most time of the year. The winters between Oct and March can be very pleasant
Trip Duration : 1 day
Accomodation : There are several beach side resorts on East Coast Road, where one can stay to visit the Mahabalipuram at sunrise.
Eat Outs at ECR
Basera , 146, 2/169 East Coast Road, Vettuvankeni, Chennai, Tel: (044)24492361. Food Village, 1/81 East Road, Injambakkam, Chennai – 41, Tel: (044) 24492692, 24493309. Hot Kitchen , 78,79 Injambakkam Village, , Chennai – 41, Tel: (044) 24490730, 24493139
Accomodation :
GRT Temple Bay Beach Resorts, Mamallapuram – 603104, Tel: 04114-242251,242254 Quality Inn MGM , No. 1/74, New Mamallapuram Road , Muttukkadu – 603112, Tel: 04114-245435 . Fisherman's Cove Covelong Beach , Mamallapuram - 603112 , Tel: 04114-272304-310 . V G P Golden Beach Resort, East Coast Road , Injambakkam, Tel: 044-24491101
GRT Temple Bay Beach Resorts, Mamallapuram – 603104, Tel: 04114-242251,242254 Quality Inn MGM , No. 1/74, New Mamallapuram Road , Muttukkadu – 603112, Tel: 04114-245435 . Fisherman's Cove Covelong Beach , Mamallapuram - 603112 , Tel: 04114-272304-310 . V G P Golden Beach Resort, East Coast Road , Injambakkam, Tel: 044-24491101
posted by Sandhya Reddy at 10:13 AM
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