Thursday, September 01, 2005

Mysore

This is not a travelogue, just a write up for those interested in going to Mysore.

People who come to Bangalore, definitely go to Mysore.

I have been to Mysore several times. I had gone there for an excursion, along with my classmates. After moving to Bangalore, I have crossed this place several times. If you wish to go to Kabini, BR hills, Madikeri or any other place to the west of Bangalore, Mysore is most likely to be on the route.

Mysore to me, is like any other city – Madurai, Trichy or Tanjore, they all look the same. But, they have their own history, and their own monuments for the tourists. Today of couse, Mysore is decoming swank – with IT majors like Wipro and Infosys coming up with world class development and training facilities. Hence Mysore is getting hot.

Situated 770m above sea level, Mysore has a warm and cool climate throughout the year. Mysore can be a single day trip, and it is not necessary to stay there as such. There are couple of places to see here – the Palace, Brindavan Gardens and Zoo in Mysore proper. Srirangapatnam used to be the strong hold of Tipu Sultan. You will find here Tipus’ fort and his tomb.

A little history about Mysore is essential to appreciate the place, the Palaces, the forts and the people in general.

Mysore was the Capital City of the Wodeyar Dynasty. The Wodeyars ruled Mysore from 1399 A.D to 1948 A.D. The name 'Mysore' has been derived from 'Mahishasurapura', name of the demon who was slained by Goddess Chamundeshwari. The glory of the Wodeyars can be seen in the palaces, vast gardens, shady avenues and temples which are present even today. Wodeyars have contributed a great deal towards arts and culture. Mysore was the only highly industrialized and progressive native state in India in steel, silk, soaps and also hydro-electricity. The kingdom was benefitted from visionaries like Sir Mirza Ismail and Sir M. Vishweswaria who served under the Wodeyars. In fact, they had their own private railway lines and 3 main stations, to move Gold from the Kolar gold fields to Mysore. The old stations at Kolar, Bangalore and Mysore belongs to the Wodeyar kings.

Talking about Mysore’s history, can we forget Srirangapattana . The two are not only geographically closer but almost fused together historically. Mysore became independent after the fall of the Vijayanagar empire(1565) and remained so till the independence of (rest of) India in 1947.

Hyder Ali and Tippu Sultan were Mysore Rajas based in Srirangapattana.

I usually go deep into history, and do it this time again. If you want to get to the ‘where to go, what to do’ part, skip to the bottom most part of the travelogue.

Haidar Ali Khan [1722-82] was a warrior chieftain. A Muslim from a peasant family, he rose to command the army of the Hindu state of Mysore. By 1761 he was virtual ruler of Mysore and began expanding the dominions of that kingdom at the expense of the Maratha states and Hyderabad. In 1767 the British, in alliance with Hyderabad and the Marathas, took the field against Haidar. They were soon deserted by their allies. Haidar, after some initial reverses, took his army to the outskirts of Madras and dictated the peace (1769).

Angered by the British refusal to honor a defensive alliance (formed in accordance with the 1769 peace terms) in 1772 and by their seizure of Mahé from the French in 1779, Haidar invaded the Carnatic with 20000 men, in 1780 and routed a British force under Colonels Braithwaite and Baillie . In 1781, a year after this, the two armies met again, and Hyder Ali’s forces were defeated by Sir Eyre Coote at Porto Novo, on the Madras coast, and at Pollilore.

Haider Ali died a year after this.

Tipu Sulta [1749-99] succeeded Haider Ali and was a genius, rather different in nature from his father. It is claimed that Haidar was of the Sunni or Orthodox Islamic faith. Tipu was a mystic, with a mystic's fervour. Tipus personal library consisted of more than 2,000 books in different languagesFrom the first, Tipu took the tiger as his personal symbol, and upon his accession to the throne in 1782, he made it the official emblem of the state of Mysore. Throughout India, he was known as 'The Tiger of Mysore'. Even the stripes upon his clothing, and upon the upholstery of his throne and the cushions of his chamber, represented the stripes of the tiger. His throne had eight corners, surmounted by eight tiger heads, and the whole throne was set as though across the back of a tiger, whose huge gold head projected in front. His canons, pistols and other artillery also carried the tiger symbol.

Tipu had inherited the war against the British from his father. He continued the war, and defeated them in 1783.

Tipu Sultan was a farsighted person who could foresee East India Company's design to get entrenched in India. He therefore negotiated with the French for help and also sought assistance from the Amir of Afghanistan and the Sultan of Turkey. The British were scared of Tipu's growing strength and after their defeat in 1783 they formed an alliance with the Nizam of Hyderabad and Marathas. The French, however, deserted Tipu after the signing of the Treaty of Versailles. The British availed the chance with the help of the Nizam and the Marathas, and started the third Anglo-Mysore war in 1790.

As long as the British fought alone, Tipu always defeated them. But he could not come over their diplomacy, conspiracy and intrigue. Thus he was defeated in his capital, Seringapatam, and was forced to sign a humiliating treaty on March 22, 1792. As a result he had to concede half of his kingdom and pay an indemnity of 33 million rupees to the British and their allies. The alliance between the adversaries was soon broken and in 1795 the British, after defeating the Nizam, once again turned their attention towards Mysore.

After the treaty at Seringapatam, Tipu Sultan did not waste his time and made extensive preparations against the British. He had rebuilt his war machine in the shortest possible time with the help of the French. The British regarded it as a violation of the treaty. This led to the start of the fourth Anglo-Mysore war in 1798 with the help of the Nizam. The French were unable to provide the needed support to Tipu Sultan. Tipu Sultan retreated to his capital and continued fighting till he breathed his last in May 1799. Tipu Sultan is buried at a mausoleum that he himself had built, along with his father Haider Ali and his mother Fatima Begum.
After the death of Tipu, the centre of gravity shifted to Mysore and the kingdom was returned to the Wodeyars by the British in 1799 A.D.

At this point, I am forced to think, how successful the British were with their divide and rule policy. Had Tipu, joined hands with the Marathas and the Nizam and Hyderabad, the combined forces could have moved the British out of India.

Mysore City with its ambience and splendour, remained for the British as a well-earned conqueror’s resort in which they could patronise their royalty and build a few comfortable buildings for themselves.

Mysore was the political capital of the Wodeyar dynasty which ruled the state of Karnataka for some 150 years till the independence of the country from the British. These kings were great patrons of art and culture and Mysore was the cultural capital of the south under the rule of the Wodeyars. The Wodeyars made the Dasara festival an event.

As you go around Mysore and Seringapatna, you will find several palaces that showcase the splendor of these rulers.

Mysore Palace - The Maharaja's Palace is one of the important sights in Mysore. Built in Indo-Saracenic style, the Palace is a treasure house of exquisite carvings and works of art from all over the world. It was re-constructed in 1912, coz the old palace was destroyed in a fire accident. It took 15 yrs to build it. Intricately carved doors open on to luxuriously furnished rooms. The majestic Durbar Hall has an ornate ceiling and many sculpted pillars and paintings depicting scenes from Ramayana and Mahabharata. The magnificent jewel studded 200 KG golden throne of the Wodeyars is displayed here during the Dasera festival. Illuminated on Sundays and public holidays ,the palace presents a spectacle of breathtaking beauty.

Daria Daulat Bagh - Tipu's Summer Palace, built in 1784, is located here. Made of teak, this Indo-Sarcenic structure has ornate and beautiful frescos. It is now a museum and tells eloquently of Tipu's valor and his losing battle against the British.

Fort - It is here that Tipu charged at the British soldiers with his legendary sword. An obelisk in the fort marks the place where he fell -betrayed by his own men. The fort holds within it, a mosque and the Ranganathaswamy Temple. Outside the fort is the Gumbaz, Tipu's tomb with splendid ebony doors inlaid with ivory.

Chamundi Hills - Chamundi Hill can be reached by a 13 km road or by climbing up the 1,000 steps laid out by the Mysore Maharaja in the 17th century. Half-way up along the stone steps is Nandi, Lord Shiva's Bull, a majestic 4.8 metre monolith. At the top is the 12th century temple of Chamundeshwari, the patron goddess of the Wodeyars.Close to the temple is the gigantic statue of the demon Mahishasura. The summit offers a panoramic view of Mysore's lakes, parks and palaces.

Brindavan Gardens - Located at the KR Sagar Dam [Kannambadi], Brindavan Gardens is one of the best gardens in South India. Spread over 150 acres, Brindavan Gardens has since the 1960s provided the backdrop for many Indian films. Special attractions include the 'Dancing Fountains'. In Dec 2004 the entire garden was revamped with new fountains and lights.

St. Philomena’s church, Mysore Zoo and the Art Gallery are also worth a visit. There are lots of places around Mysore that may be of interest. They are Himvad Gopalaswamy Hills for trekkers and has a temple at the top, Melkote ( 50 kms ), Talakad ( 48 kms ), Sivasamudram Waterfalls ( 85 kms ), Nagarhole National Park ( 93 kms ), Kabini River Lodge ( 83 kms ), B. R. Hills ( 120 kms ), Mekadatu and Ranganna Thittu bird sanctuary.

Getting There

Mysore is a important city in Bangalore and is well connected by Rail and Roads.

Road : 130 kms from Bangalore.

Rail : Mysore has its own railway station. There are several trains to Mysore from Bangalore. There is also a Shatabdi Express between Chennai and Mysore via Bangalore.

Air : Bangalore – 130 kms

Best time : Throughout the year

Trip Duration : 1 or 2 days

Accomodation :
Dasprakash Paradise, 104, Vivekananda Road, Yadavagiri. Phone: +91-821-410366/515655 . Fax: +91-821-514400
Hotel Kaynes (3 Star), 85 - 87, Hootagalli, BEML Road (Off Hunsur Road), Mysore - 571186. Phone: +91-821-402931/403104. Fax: +91-821-402934
Hotel Metropole, J.L.B.Road. Phone: +91-821-520681.
Hotel Mayura Hoysala, 2 Jhansi Lakshmi Bai Rd, Mysore - 570005. Phone: +91-821-423492.
King's Kourt, J.L.B. Road, Mysore - 570005. Phone: +91-821-421142, Fax: +91-821-422384