Monday, February 27, 2006

Anuradhapura

Day 4

Anuradhapura was top on the list. I wanted to visit this place, coz this was the place where Buddhism started first in Srilanka. Emperor Ashoka’s children Bindusara and Sangamitra, took a sapling from the Bodhi tree at Gaya to Anuradhapura and planted it there. The tree is prayed and millions of devotees come there to offer their prayers.

Anuradhapura is also the 1st capital of ancient Srilanka. In all good intentions, I wanted to visit Anuradhapura first and then visit Polonnaruwa which is the 2nd capital. But, the order got reversed as Arvind’s health was not good. We visit Polonnaruwa first. But, that’s okay.

I visited Anuradhapura alone.

Mathow picked me up early, and the distance of 90 kms from Giritale resort took about an hour and a half.

Anuradhapura is the oldest city I have visited. According to my reading, it was a city dating back 500 BC.

This ancient and 1st Srilankan capital, is famous for its well preserved ruins of the Great Srilankan Civilization. It is one of the greatest civilizations of Asia. It is a UNESCO recognized World Heritage Site. It lies 205 kms north west of Colombo.

Reading more about Anuradhapura, I realize it is not just a 500 BC city, it is much older than that.

Mahavamsa is the greatest ancient historical books of Sinhalese, and it mentions that Anuradhapura was the capital of Kind Pandukabhaya who ruled from 437 to 367 BC. It was built by King Vijaya’s chief minister Anuradha, and hence it was called Anuradhapura.

As per historical records the city is of the 5th century BC, but excavations near the citadel have revealed information about the earlier inhabitants of the city. Excavations also showed articles dating 900 to 700 BC. The city is well placed, between the ports on the Northwest and the North East, and is buried deep in the jungle, which was to serve as natural defense.

First, Pandukabhaya who founded this city and planned it, had gates for the city, and quarters for traders. At that time, the city must have covered a large area. This is evident from the countless number of ruined roads we passed through as we drove to reach the different places in this city.

Buddhish was introduced first into Srilanka here and then, the city became more prominent. The book Mahavamsa states that King Kutakannatissa built the first wall around the city to a height of about 7 cubits with a moat. This fortification was later enlarged and reinforced during the reign of King Vasabha. Gates were also added, and these can be seen even today.

The noted traveler Fa-Hien visited Anuradhapura at this time and was thoroughly impressed with the city planners. He states in this books that there were two types of homes. The homes of the merchants were large and well decorates, these merchants were mostly from foreign countries, South India, Mediterranean and Persia. The other homes were much smaller and they belonged to the locals whose main source of income was from agriculture.

King Devanampiya Tissa wanted to create enclosures for the Sanga ie the Buddhist monasteries and wanted to himself live close to the Buddha. Hence he commissioned the constructions of buildings with marked boundaries. Thus began the great building era.

Go around Anuradhapura, and you will see how large the city is, and how large the buildings and stupas are. They made the largest stupas and seems like they did it with easy and in style.

The monastic settlement, known as the Theravadins was founded by King Devanampiya Tissa in 249 BC.

The Mahayana followers built the Abhayagiri Vihara.

King Mahasena ( 275 BC – 310 AC ) built the Jetawana Ramaya, which is the large brick structure in the world. Its looks marvelous from a distance with its orange robe. The robe is given as offering by devotees.

Therefore around the city, several gigantic stupas were constructed. The Mahatupa, the Bodhi tree and the Thuparama are in the south of the city, the Abhayagiri to the north, the Pubbarama to the east, the Tonovana to the north-west and the Jetavana to the south east.

The tooth relic was brought by the King Kirtisri Meghavana, and was kept in a building named Dhammachakka. It was taken in a annual procession to Abhayagiri.

The city began to grow and lots of people began to live there. Administration has to be taken care of and amenities had to be provided.

King Vasabha ordered the construction of many ponds for rain water harvesting. River Malwatu Oya was dammed to built the Maccaduwa wewa. Tissa, Abhayavapi and Nuwarawewa tanks were built to collect rain water. I passed through Nuwara wewa and I could see the Ruvanaweli Seya and the Abhayagiri at the background.

Hospitals, quarters for the crippled and blind were built. King Buddhadasa ( 337 – 365 BC ) appointed a physician for every 10 villages. Sanitation was taken care of the city was always maintained clean.



Anuradhapura is known for its irrigation system and many of these survive to this date.

The city flourished for 10 decades. It came under attack by the Kings of South India, especially the Chola rulers. The Cholas plundered the city and ruined it. In 1017, the city has to deserted and the capital was moved to Polonnaruwa.

Anuradhapura became ruins and the forests took over.

Sometime around the 19th Century the British colonists cleared the jungle and laid this beautiful city bare. Several tanks were restored and made usable for the general public.

So, what is there today to see at Anuradhapura. For any ancient ruin lover, there are lots of treasures.

There are basically three types of buildings – Dagobas ( stupas ), monastic buildings and Pokunas ( tanks ). The Bo tree is dated back to the year 245 BC.

The most important places to visit among the ruins in the city are the Bo tree, Ruwana weli seya, Tupa ramaya, Lanka Tilake, Abhayagiri, Jetavana Ramaya, The Dhana shala ( where the monks used to eat ), The Atupokuna where about 7000 monks used to bathe daily, the Kuttam Pokuna or Twin ponds were the royals used to bathe, Kiribath Vihara, Samadhi Buddha among other places.

Isirimuniya is a small Buddhist vihara close by, and it has many exquisite statues of Buddha and a small museum.

I finished by Anuradhapura trip and got back to the hotel by about 2 pm, ready for lunch and a well deserved afternoon siesta.
Also Read
Day 1 : Negembo
Day 2 : Dambulla
Day 3 : Polonnaruwa