Delhi

Cow in the middle of a traffic jam, beggars in the road signals, ill mannered taxi drivers, filthy markets, railway stations, beautiful forts, mosques, palaces…all of this is a part of the experience called Delhi. Don't let your first impressions of Delhi disturb you. Go ahead and explore this city, rich with culture, architecture and human diversity, deep with history and totally addictive for all those bitten by the travel bug.

Delhi obviously has 2 parts…Old Delhi or Purani Delhi with the Moghul past with all its narrow labyrinth streets. It was the capital of Muslim India between the mid-17th and late 19th centuries, is full of formidable mosques, monuments and forts, lively area of colourful bazaars, narrow streets and uncontrollable chaos. In contrast, New Delhi has wide open spaces, orderly government homes and green avenues, which was created by the British Raj, and has a sense of order absent from other parts of the city. New Delhi was the brain child of Sir Edwin Lutyens.
It's an excellent base for visiting Agra and the Taj Mahal, Rajasthan, Jaipur is less than five hours away. If you're heading north to the Himalaya or east to the ghats of Varanasi, Benaras, Mathura, Allahabad, Prayag you'll probably pass through Delhi.

Popular Hindu mythology claims that Delhi actually the fabled city of Indraprastha, which featured in the Mahabharata over 3000 years ago, but historical evidence suggests that the area had settlers for around 2500 years. Since the 12th century, Delhi has seen the rise and fall of seven major powers. The Chauhans took control in the 12th century and made Delhi the most important Hindu centre in northern India. When Qutab-ud-din Aibak occupied the city in 1193, it was the start of six and a half centuries of Muslim rule. The Delhi Sultanate lasted from 1206 to 1526, despite its inconsistent rule, and was followed by the mighty Moghuls from 1526 to 1857. The basis of what is today Old Delhi, including the Red Fort and the Jama Masjid, was built during the reign of the Moghul emperor Shah Jahan (1628-1658).

In 1803, the British captured Delhi and installed a British administrator. Delhi was not the capital of India at the time, but it was an important commercial centre and had a population of 150,000 by the start of the 20th century.

When the British decided to make Delhi the capital in 1911, they built New Delhi in a grandiose imperial style, and I have indicated earlier, Lutyens was the master Architect. Only 16 years after the city was inaugurated as the nation's capital, Delhi was torched during the trauma of Partition. In a matter of weeks it was transformed from a Muslim-dominated city of less than a million inhabitants to a largely Hindu city of almost two million. Delhi became the home for all the Hindu’s to came to India after the partition in 1947.

Well, all this history was in the back of my head, and Delhi was on the agenda. May 2003. It is the peak of the summer in Delhi, and I was there. After a 10 days trek in the Himalayas, the hot gangetic plain was the next destination. Very contrasting.

Me and my brother had 2 days in Delhi. So, we decided to see the Lotus Mandir, Qutab Minar, Red Fort, the Museum in Delhi and if there was time, we wanted to drive around the place..so we could see India Gate.

We had our accommodation booked in a guest house – called Bhagat Inn. It is a residence, where a couple of rooms are rented out to travelers for about Rs. 1400 for double occupancy.

We hired a cab, and decided to visit all the places in one day…it was a single day trip.

We first reached the Lotus Mahal. The only information I have about it, was that it was commissioned by the late Prime Minister of India, Shri Rajiv Gandhi and was meant to be a temple of peace, with no idol, and is meant for people of all religions. It has prayer hall inside it, where about 300 people can pray at a time. It is made of marble…and as the name of the place goes, it is in the shape of a lotus. It was really nice to see from outside.

The next destination was Qutab Minar.

Qutub Minar was built by Qutub-ud-din Aibak of the Qutub dynasty to commemorate his victory. Qutub-Minar in red standstone is the highest tower in India. It has a diameter of 14.32m at the base and about 2.75m on the top with a height of 72.5m.

Qutb-u'd-Din Aibak laid the foundation of Qutab Minar in AD 1199 for the use of Mu'azzin (crier) to give calls for prayer and raised the first storey, to which were added three more storeys by his successor and son-in-law, Shamsu'd-Din IItutmish (AD 1211-36). All the storeys are surrounded by a projected balcony encircling the Minar and supported by stone brackets, which are decorated with honeycomb design, more conspicuously in the first storey.

Numerous inscriptions in Arabic and Nagari characters in different places of the Minar reveal the history of Qutub. According to the inscriptions on its surface it was repaired by Firoz Shah Tughlaq and Sikandar Lodi (AD 1489-1517). Major R. Smith also repaired and restored the Qutub Minar in 1829.

Quwwat-ul-Islam Mosque, near the Minar was built by Qutbu'd-Din Aibak in AD 1198. It is the earliest extant -mosque built by the Delhi Sultans. It consists of a rectangular courtyard made from the carved columns of 27 Hindu and Jain temples, which were demolished by Qutub Ud-Din Aibak as recorded in his inscription on the main eastern entrance.

The Iron Pillar in the courtyard bears an inscription in Sanskrit in Brahmi script of 4th century AD, according to which the pillar was set up as a Vishnudhvaja (standard of Lord Vishnu) on the hill known as Vishnupada in memory of a mighty king named Chandra. A deep socket on the top of the ornate capital indicates that probably an image of Garuda was fixed into it.

The other interesting buildings inside the Qutub premises are tomb of Iltutmish, Alai Minar, Madrasas, tombs, mosques and other smaller buildings. The next destination was Lal Quila or Red Fort. In 1638, the them emperor Shah Jehan, moved the capital of India from Agra to Delhi, and a new royal palace was constructed. Known as the Red Fort (Lal Qila), it was begun around 1640 and completed by 1648.

The name comes from the massive red sandstone walls, some up to 110 feet high, which surround this magnificent piece of Moghul architecture. The palace is made of white marble and decorated in gold and precious stones. Shah Jahan's throne lay in the middle of the palace, and on the ceiling above was written in gold lettering "If there is a paradise on earth, it is this, it is this, it is this." The Red Fort is one of the most magnificent palaces in the world. India's history is also closely linked with Red Fort.
The Red Fort served as the center of the Mughal Empire for more than 200 years. Lal Qila (Red Fort) is actually a series of individual pavilions, each with a specific purpose. The individual buildings are Diwani Khas, Diwani Aam, bathroom or Hammam and Moti Masjid.

The other places in Delhi are Jama Masjid, Purana Quila, Humayuns Tomb, Coronation Durbar site, Shalimar Bagh, Chandi chowk and spice Market.

We got extremely tired, as it was really hot..We went to a chat shop to have Delhi chat.. we had good fun. We were back at our rooms.. took a little rest. In the evening, we were ready to leave Delhi….it was a enriching experience.

Getting There :

Air / Road / Rail – Delhi is the capital city of India, and is well connected from any city in the world by Air. Air, Road and Rail ways connect Delhi to all other major metros in the country.

Trip Duration : 3 days

Best time : Between August and October. Delhi can get extremely hot and cold, due to this location.

Getting around : Taxi

Places to stay :

I stayed in Bhagat inn, which is a home stay. I think, you all must stay in some friends or relatives place…coz Delhi is a big city and I am sure, all of you have someone or the other there.

Note : All the history about Delhi and its monuments, I read it in books and on the web before writing the travelogue. Before visting Delhi, the only info I had, was from my 10th standard history book and from the TV serial ‘Main Dilli Hoon’.

Agra

The Taj Mahal attracts people from all over the world. It is one of the 7 wonders along with the Pyramids, the Grand Canyon, the Eiffel Tower, the Sydney Opera House and the Houses of Parliament, but it's so much more beautiful than the others: as it was built for love. Only when you get there, you will realize why the Taj Mahal is the Taj Mahal, un-paralleled in beauty and magnificence.

Agra is accessible from Delhi by Road, Air and Rail. Government has laid out wonderful roads to reach Agra and Jaipur from Delhi, and this is called the Golden Triangle. One can reach Agra from Delhi by road in 4 hrs. I happened to be in Delhi for a few days in May 2003 and I knew that 1 day was enough to visit the Taj Mahal. I was traveling with my brother. We hired a cab, and left Delhi in the morning. Our agenda was fixed - Taj Mahal, Sikandra and Agra Fort in one day.

Agra used to be the capital of the Moghul rulers who ruled India from the 15th Century to the 18th century, until the time of Bahadur Shah Zafar. The Taj Mahal was built in 1631, by Shah Jehan in memory of his dear Wife Mumtaj Mahal, who died during the birth of their 14th child. It took 20 yrs and 20,000 craftsmen to construct the Taj Mahal. There are several gory stories attached as well, apart from the romantic angle. It is believed that Shah Jehan got the best of the craftsmen for the job, but, after the job was done, the hands of the craftsmen were cut off, to ensure that they did not replicate the same elsewhere. How sadistic !! The architect was an Iranian and the original plan also included a Black Taj Mahal on the other side of the Yamuna , like a mirror image, which would house Shah Jehans tomb. But, the black one never got erected.

Shah Jehan chose this place on the bank of the river Yamuna, for a couple of reasons. The river curved in this place, and hence in the small island that was created, he wanted to make the Taj. The reflection of the building in the river would be a breath taking view. The river water was required for the gardens and the several fountains that were to be there. And, Shah Jehan could see the Taj Mahal from his fort in Agra. During the latter part of his life, Shah Jehan was imprisoned by his son, Aurangzeb, who emerged successful in the war of succession. Shah Jehan was imprisoned in a small room in his fort, from where he could see the Taj. After his death, he was buried near Mumtaj’s grave, and therefore this is the only asymmetrical part of the Taj. Shah Jehan wanted the Black Taj to be his tomb.

As all of us know, the Taj Mahal has a main dome in the center with 4 minarets. There are two mosques on both the sides, but only one of them is used now. The Entire complex is on a huge marble platform. There is a beautiful garden in front of the Taj, with several waterways and fountains. The faces of the walls have intricate designs with precious stones embedded in them. The Koran is engraved on it too, and it is done in such a way that all the verses are readable by a man standing in front of them on the floor, and they look like they are of the same size, no matter how high on the wall they are engraved.

There are lots of photographers and guides in front of the complex. You can get very fancy photographs of yourself, holding the minaret of the Taj in your hand and stuff like that, for Rs. 50 and you will get your snap developed immediately. There is bench in front of the Taj, most tourists get a snap of themselves in front of the Taj Mahal, even Princess Diana and Bill Clinton got themselves photographed this way.

One needs to be careful with touts in Agra and their attitude. They cheat you and you do not have a choice. You can take a horse cart from the starting point of Taj Mahal, after which no taxi or any other vehicle is allowed. Hence, you are at the mercy of these people. If you argue about the prices, within no time, you will find that you are surrounded by the locals who look nothing less than thugs.

There are vendors who will show you marble inlayed boxes, shawls, carved stuff, leather whips carpets and all kinds of things. They will tell you that they are all original. A marble carved and stone inlayed box, its first quoted rate would be Rs. 50 and in the end, you will be able to buy it for Rs. 15 if you bargain enough.

The other places worth seeing in Agra are the Agra Fort and Sikandra – the place where Akbar is buried. Akbar started constructing the fort, but additions were made by every successor. Shah Jehans additions were in Marble and you will see his marble obsession. But, I will agree that his buildings are most beautiful, because on white marble background, the inlay designs look magnificient. Inside the Agra Fort complex are Jehangir Mahal, Jodha Bhai Mahal ( Jodha Bai was Akbars Rajput Wife ), Moti Mahal, Shah Jehans Khas Mahal, Diwan – e- Khas ( Hall for Private Audience ), Diwan – e- Am ( Hall for Public Audience ) and others. But, this fort is on flat land, and hence there is no breathtaking view around it. There is a moat with huge entrances. There is lot of restoration work going on to keep the place intact for posterity.

Sikandra – Akbar Tomb was designed by Akbar, but was executed by Jehangir, his successor. The building is made of Red Sandstone and has intricate designs on it. It has a mosque, garden with deers and peacocks, and has a huge entrance. It am told that his entrance resembles the Buland Darwaza in Fatehpur Sikri. Surmounted by four minarets, it is overlaid with colored tiles that bear inscriptions from the Koran. Inside the vaulted roof was once done in gold and blue to resemble the heavens. (Only a single section has been restored but it is enough to suggest the beauty of what once was.) A chapter from the Koran runs around the cornices.

Akbar lies in a subterranean crypt inside the mausoleum across from an alabaster tablet inscribed with the 99 names of Allah. A single ray of light illuminates the sepulchre which is otherwise cloaked in a quiet darkness. This place is beautiful, and don’t miss it even if you have a shortage of time.

As Agra was the capital city of the Mughals, I am sure there are several others places, worth a visit. Agra is a very filthy town, and if not for the Taj Mahal, this place is not worth a visit. We had seen the most important places, and as it was already 6 pm in the evening, it was time to leave for Delhi. We knew leaving at 6 pm, we would reach Delhi at 10 pm, and if we delayed any further, it was going to more trouble. We bought a small marble box with a intricate inlay design for my mom. The drive to Delhi was smooth as the road was good. We had dinner in a dhaba on the way.

Getting There :

Air : 40 mins flight from Delhi

Road : 4 hrs drive. 203 kms.

Train : Delhi Agra Shatabdi is the best option. But, Agra is well connected from all the nearby cities. Getting to Agra is never really a problem.

Best time of the Year : Summers can get hot and winters can get unbearably chilly. Best time to visit is between March to October.

Trip duration : 1 or 2 days.

Accomodations : If you are going to Agra from Delhi on a single day road trip, then you can get back to Delhi in the Night. But, if you wish to say there in the night, you can stay at these places.

Taj View, Man Singh Palace, Amar Vilas, Trident, Holiday Inn are places one can stay in.

The government Of India Tourist Office - 191, the Mall, Agra, Uttar Pradesh, India. Tel. - +(91) - 0562 - 363959.
UP State Tourism Development Corporation - Tourist Bungalow, Raja-ki- Mandi, Agra, Uttar Pradesh, India. Tel. - +(91) - 0562 -350120
Tourist Information Center - UP tourist office, 64 Taj Road, Uttar Pradesh, India Tel. - +(91) - 0562 - 360517
Tourist Information Counter - Agra Cantonment Railway Station, Agra, Uttar Pradesh, India Tel. - +(91) - 0562 - 368598

Hampi

I had seen Hampi in a lot of Indian films song sequences and read a lot about its history. I was awed with what I had read, and so I wanted to go to the place and see for myself. Every journey is a search for something, but this time, we got more than what we asked for, lots of history, architectural marvels, and nice place to sit and see sunrise and sunset.

In November 2001, we ie me and hubby decided to go to Bijapur and Hampi. Bijapur was the 1st leg of the quest and Hampi was the second. This travelogue is about Hampi and hence I will stick to the topic. We took a bus from Bijapur to Hampi. As the bus moved from Bijapur towards Hampi, I could see vast expanses of barren land, really naked and completely exposed to the sun. There were no trees, not a blade of grass, no cattle and no village scenes that you will usually see during other bus or train journeys. This bus ride in this part of the country was unique– North Karnataka is dry, very contrary to the South. It is a large plateau. It takes about 4 hrs to reach Hampi by bus from Bijapur.

To visit Hampi and the places there, it is advisable to stay at Hospet, which is about 13 kms from Hampi. One can engage a cab for about 4 to 5 days. One will need that much of time to go around the place and admire the beauty. Hampi was a very rich kingdom and the entire place is strewn with temples, palaces and their ruins. This city of ruins is declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.

Hampi is a dry, hot and dusty place, and hence one must be ready for the ordeal. The place has lots of boulders and it seems like all the boulders were thrown from the sky on to the ground, and they have just occupied which ever place was available. The river Thungabadra flows through this terrain and hence there is a little green patch, the bank is cool and is a welcome treat to anyone who is wandering around the ruins. There are a lot of villages around Hampi.

Some dope about the history of the place. Vijayanagar was the capital of a wealthy empire that made its money out of spices. Its seven concentric circles of fortifications housed half a million people, but these were not enough to keep out the attacks of Deccan Sultans. The 200-year-old empire came to a sudden end in 1565 after the disastrous battle of Talikota. Excavations still continue and more is being discovered about this fascinating city.

There are no good hotels in Hampi and hence we decided to stay at Hospet. I had a booking in a hotel called Mallige. Mallige has 2 types of rooms. The Rs. 350 rooms have a double cot, attached bath, and is not so neat. They have rooms for Rs. 500 that are extremely good - good interiors, cots, study table, a small sit out, TV, good bathroom with geyser etc. The sit out has a garden too, and it is completely enclosed. So, you can have your privacy. Mallige also has a bar, swimming pool, cyber café & travel desk. Not bad for a small town eh ! But, with the constant flow of foreign tourists, all these are a must.

Lot of foreign tourists visit this place. Hampi is a hot destination for rock climbers now. There are a couple of rock climbing outfits that have sprung up all of a sudden, they charge about Rs. 250 for a climbing session. Hampi’s locals are not delighted about the hippies hanging out all over the place. There are a lot of rave parties that are held on the banks of the Tungabhadra. I am told that there is a Indian Guru on the other side of the river, who lives in his Kutir, and supplies unlimited dope to the hippies. There are a lot of tourists who come to Hampi from Goa on bikes. They spend a couple of days here and get back to their next destination.

Hampi has a lot of ‘must see’ places and hence 5 days is required. The entire ruins are scattered over a area of about 20 sq kms, and hence one can get really tired. The car cannot go to the actual spot. Once needs to leave it and then walk around, it can get tiring. The places that have to be visited are many.

Hampi Bazaar : Now that locals are occupying the ancient buildings lining the main street, Hampi bustles with activity and life again.

Virupaksha Temple : At the western end of Bazaar is the Virupaksha temple, built in 1442 with a 50 m high gopuram, and a smaller one added in 1510. It is dedicated to Lord Shiva his form as Pampapati or Virupaksha.

Kings Balance : The Tulapurusadana, is actually the scaffolding of the balance. It is here that the king was weighed on his coronation or after a victory, against gold or precious stones, which were then distributed to the brahmins or granted to a temple. The scaffolding faces the east and has a rough carving of the king and two queens being weighed.

Vittala Temple : A footpath from the eastern end of Hampi Bazaar leads to the Vittala Temple. This 16th century temple is a World Heritage monument. The temple was begun in the reign of Vijayanagar’s greatest king, Krishnadevaraya, but was never finished. The outer pillars are called the musical pillars because they reverberate when tapped. There are several sets of these pillars, and each set of pillars produces sound of a different instrument. There are 8 pillars in each set, one for each of the sapta swaras. The ornate stone chariot in the temple courtyard has an image of Garuda. I was told that, the wheels could turn. Now it is neatly secured with wooden logs.

The temple was never finished. King and queens added to it but it was never consecrated. The reason? It was a temple of Vithala. Before it was finished he came to pay a visit. The earthy god of villages and peasants took one look at it and decided that it was far too elegant for him. He was going to stay put in his temple at Pandharpur. He returned and the temple was left incomplete.

A lot of film song sequence shootings are held here. Our taxi driver cum guide told that he has seen Shilpa Shetty, Urmila, Sonali Bendre and several other heroines, skimply clad, dancing to the scores of the music directors in the temple complex and in the thungabhadra river..which is close by

Achutaraya Temple : It is at the bottom of the Matanga hill. Built by King Achyutaraya, it has some exceptionally fine pillars and handsome sculpture. You will find some beautifully carved unique animals.

In the north-western corner of the temple courtyard is a large kalyana mandapa where the wedding of the gods would take place.

It is a great to trek up the Mathanga hill and watch the sun rise and sun set. It is advisable to wear a good pair of shoes, and be extra careful while climbing up, as there are a few crevasses. These are so dark inside, and could be very deep.

The Royal Ruins : This area of Hampi looks different. The boulders are missing. There are several stone walls. The water work is sophisticated. Over the river is the old bridge built by the kings on which the army used to march. It seems there used to be water works who would fill water into the canals / pipe systems throughout the day. There is an aqueduct standing inside the citadel.

The Queens Bath : This is a simple structure with a plain facade and glorious interior. A narrow moat surrounds this building. Inside is a small tank or swimming bath. Around it is an arched corridor with many projecting balconies overlooking the tank. There's some pretty stucco work on the walls. It is open to the sky and surrounded by corridors with 24 different domes.

Hazara Rama Temple : This is supposed to have been the private place of worship for the kings. It is close to the ruins of the royal palace. Krishnadevaraya began the building by giving six tax-free villages to the god Ramachandra Deva on the occasion of a solar eclipse to gain merit for his parents.

The granite temple along with its attendant shrine is one of the most perfect specimens of Vijayanagar architecture. As it is dedicated to Lord Rama, the walls and pillars of the two shrines and the inner surface of the courtyard walls depict the main incidents in the Ramayana and a few scenes from the Mahabharatha.

The Zenana Enclosure : The Zenana Enclosure has some Indo-Saracenic buildings of note. The walls around it are far thin and tapering towards the top. Which means they were probably there for privacy, to protect the ladies from the prying eyes of the world. The main entrance faces the west. The Queen's palace is represented by a ruined basement. There is also a tower that has been misrepresented as a watch tower; its architectural style suggests that it might have been a place from which the ladies could peer at life passing by.

The Lotus Mahal : This is one of the prettiest buildings in the complex. It's an amazing synthesis of Hindu and Islamic styles in the great Indo-Saracenic tradition: while the pillars and arches are Islamic in nature, the base, the roof and the beautiful stucco ornamentation on this charming little pavilion are Hindu. The building is on a raised platform but the corners are doubly recessed which may account for its name. It had an early form of air conditioning: water-cooled air was driven through tubes to cool Krishnadevaraya's queen in the summer.

The Elephant Stables : This is a grand building, with 11 domed chambers that once housed the state's elephants. Only local tradition maintains that the architects adapted the domes used in the desert to cool palaces to keep their pachyderms cool and fighting fit. Now scholars believe it may have been living quarters and the rings in the wall were probably used to string up the punkahs. The central tower is in ruins but it was probably a stepped tower in the Hindu tradition. As it stands, the building is entirely Islamic in character: it faces west and the arches mark it as Western.

The underground temple : The temple was built so that the lingam would be around water. This is the temple of the Prasanna Virupaksha, the temple of the delighted Virupaksha.

The Statue of Narasimha : The statues arms have been lopped off and his legs cut off.
Narasimha, fourth avataar of Lord Vishnu dominates the village road, a monument to righteous justice. Originally, Narasimha's consort Shri Lakshmi must have been portrayed sitting on his thigh but the only remnant of her is the arm she had around his waist. An inscription on a stone slab in front of the enclosure records that Krishnadevaraya ordered it hewed out of a single boulder. On the base of the pedestal is a representation of the sun and the moon, an indication that the sculptor believed that it would last forever.

Other temples dot the area including temples to Krishna, Vishnu and Ganesha.

The Ganesh Moniliths : Oddly this one is named, Sasivikallu Ganesh or the stone like a mustard seed. Here is one of the best-loved gods of India, standing upon the open pillared mandapa on the rocky hillock above the shrine to Vishnu. His mount, a rat, is carved on a separate piece of stone, set in front of the image. Although this is not as powerful an image as that of the Narasimhan, it is an affecting image.

Inside a temple a few metres down the road, there is a companion image who is called the grain of gram stone Ganesh or Kadalaikallu Ganesh. From the temple, you get a wonderful view of the Hampi bazaar and the Tungabhadra beyond it.

The Archeological Museum at Kamalapuram : This has a small collection of sculpture, paintings, copper plates and coins which have been found at the site. The scale model in the courtyard will go a long way to help you orient yourself.

Dasara Bidda : Here the king sat as all around him his courtiers danced during the nine nights of Mahanavami or Navratri. Although it may now look like nothing more than a 12 m high platform, it was once the throbbing heart of the city, to which travellers came to see the glories of the Dussehra festivities. The small chamber in the centre of this huge platform is thought to be the place where the magnificently wrought throne was placed during the celebrations.

Anegondi : North of the river is the ruined stronghold of Anegondi. You take a boat - Rs 5 for a single trip - to get there. This was where the Viajayanagar empire was born. Harihara ruled here but many of the temples predate that founding since some of them clearly belong to the 10th and 11th centuries. The temples are dedicated to Vishnu who is worshipped here as Ranganatha (reclining on a serpent) and as Venkateshwara. The defensive walls are intact but the rest is all banana plantations. Check out the whitewashed Hanuman temple on the hill. There's also a Sri Aurobindo ashram there that offers courses in meditation and yoga.

The Thungabhadra Dam & Gardens : It is in Hospet and is on the Thungabhadra river. It is the longest masonary work in South India, 2 kms long and 40 m high. The gardens are well maintained and there there is a small aquarium also.

The only restaurant in Hampi is Bhuvaneshwari. It is good to have a simple lunch. Lime rice, tomato rice, curd rice, egg omelettes are available. Cool drinks are also available. It is not possible to stay here. But is a decent place to grab a meal in between the ruin trip. There are several other shacks where you can hazard a chai.

Getting there :

By Road : Once can reach Hampi from Bangalore road – 353 Kms. Hampi and Hospet are connected by Bus Services for all cities and towns in Karnataka.

Nearest railway station : Hospet ( 13 kms ). From Hospet one can get to Hubli, Mysore and Bangalore.

Nearest airports : Bellary ( 74 kms ) , Belgaum ( 190 kms ) and Bangalore ( 353 kms )

Going Around : To see the all the places around Hampi you may end up walking about 7 kms. Hence hiring a cycle will be a good option. If you are staying at Hospet, then one can engage a local taxi for the entire site seeing. The cab drivers also double up at guides, and they are very helpful. One can engage the cab for about 4 for 5 days for a fixed rate.

There are a lot of foreign tourists who get to Hampi from Goa on bikes. If you are one of them, then you can go around on the bike.

Best time : October to march.

Trip duration : 3 to 5 days

Where to stay :

Hotel Mallige : This is in Hospet. This is the only place where I suggest you can stay.
143/6, Hospet - Bellary Road, Hospet, Karnataka, India. , Tel: +(91) (8394) 428101~7, Fax: +(91) (8394)
Hotel Mayura Bhuvaneshwari : Hampi bus stop.
Kamalapur (Hampi), Bellary Dist - 583 221, Karnataka, India. , Tel: +(91) (8394) 441574, Fax: +(91) (8394) 428537

Bijapur

When I was kid, I used to participate in a lot of quiz competitions. I used to go about reading a lot of magazines, news papers, and several of those printed GK books. My favorite chapter in these books was ‘Highest, Tallest, Biggest, Largest, Deepest’. This chapter would give details of all the living and non-living, man-made and natural entities that would fall into these categories and would give information about them as well. I had read – the worlds 2nd largest dome was ‘Gol Gumbaz’ and it was in Bijapur.

I had pondered about Bijapur a lot and had also read and lot about its places history, I was impressed, and I decided that I have to go and see Gol Gulbaz. I made the trip to Bijapur in Nov 2001.

Bijapur is not linked by rail directly, Gulbarga and Sholapur are the closest Railway stations. It takes about 4 hrs to reach Bijapur by bus from any of these 2 places. Since, we were in Chennai, we took the Chennai Mumbai mail. This train stops at Gulbarga as well as Sholapur. The train left Chennai central at 10 pm and reaches Gulbarga at about 2 pm the next day. Our co-passengers in the train told that it is better to get off at Gulbarga at 2 pm and reach Bijapur in 4 hrs, rather than get off at Sholapur at 6 pm, and take another 4 hrs to reach Bijapur. Gulbarga seemed the right place to get off.

There are several buses to Bijapur from Gulbarga, and as expected, we reached in 4 hrs. The terrain of North Karnataka is so different from the green Southern parts. It is dry here, and as the bus moves on the highway, you will see dry barren land without even a blade of grass. Never the less, the scenery is stunning.

Bijapur is a small dusty town. I had a print out of budget hotels, that I had taken from Traveljini. I did not have a booking, as I wanted to see the hotel before checking in. The first hotel that we went to, Madhuvan, was simple and nice. There was nothing lavish about it. It had simple rooms with basic amenities and charges a nominal INR 300 per day. This place also had a attached restaurant, and guess what, from the hotel room, we could see Gol Gumbaz. The receptionist was very helpful, she told us about all the places that are worth seeing in Bijapur. We took rest that evening, and we were prepared to explore every nook and corner of Bijapur the next day.

Bijapur is a historic fort city. You will know this only once you get there. When you get on top of the Gol Gumbaz, and when you look around, you will see a high fort wall, that was constructed all around the city with 4 watch towers. The fort walls are in ruins right now, but in many places it is intact. 3 of the watch towers are fine, and you can get in flash back mode and imagine what the place would have been like in its hey days during the time of Adil Shah.

Inside this walled city – is Gol Gumbaz, Juma Masjid, Barah Cumman, Ibrahim Rouza, Sher – e – Burj and several palaces. Most of the palaces are in a dilapidated condition, but, some palaces are well preserved. It is called Agra of the South – there is reason for this, and I will explain it later. Your visit to every monument will reveal yet another secret of this city's illustrious past. After all, Bijapur was not built in a day.

One can’t appreciate the beauty of the place, if you do not know about its history. The foundations of this city were laid during the Chalukyan dynasty of Kalyani between the tenth and eleventh centuries. They called it Vijayapura or the "City of Victory" from which comes its present name Bijapur. Bijapur came under Muslim influence, first under Allaudin Khilji, the Sultan of Delhi, towards the end of the 13th century, and then under the Bahamani kings of Bidar in 1347. In 1481, Mohammed III, one of the Bahamani Sultans, appointed Yusuf Adil Khan as the Governor of Bijapur.

Now about Yusuf Adil Shah – his is a story of rags to riches. He was a slave who became a Sultan. He was one of the sons of Sultan Mahmud II of Turkey. Adil Khan fled his country on the death of his father, to escape the massacre of crown prince in the battle for succession to the throne. He was purchased as a slave by Mahmud Gavan, the Prime Minister of Mohammed III.
With the decline of the Bahamani power at Bidar, Yusuf declared his independence in 1489 and thus became the founder of the Adil Shahi dynasty. Bijapur became the capital of the Adil Shahi kings (1489-1686), one of the five splinter states formed when the Bahmani Muslim kingdom broke up in 1482. Bijapur survived as a kingdom till its annexation by Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb in 1686.

Bijapur experienced a great burst of architectural activity under the Adil Shahi dynasty. The Adil Shahis encouraged building activity to such an extent that Bijapur itself has over 50 mosques, more than 20 tombs and a number of palaces. An interesting feature was the employment of large numbers of Indian craftsmen . Earlier Muslim rulers of the Deccan deployed Persian craftsmen and architects.

Bijapur is still strongly Muslim in character and it has many important monuments and historical ruins.

Bijapur's greatest attractions are architectural, especially Islamic architecture. Minarets, domes and echoing burial chambers all conjure up images of the Arabian Nights. Here are a few of the many monuments, you may want to visit , at the least.

Bijapur's greatest attractions are architectural, especially Islamic architecture. Minarets, domes and echoing burial chambers all conjure up images of the Arabian Nights. Here are a few of the many monuments, you may want to visit , at the least.

Gol Gumbaz – Gol Gumbaz was the first place we went to. The mercury was rising, and I had enough stock of sun tan cream to fight it. Literary meaning, 'round', it is the tomb of Mohammed Adil Shah (1627 -56) , the seventh ruler of Adil Shahi dynasty.

Built at his orders before his death, this gigantic mausoleum took 20 years to complete , which dominates the landscape of Bijapur for miles around. It is the 2nd largest done in the world, and stands unsupported by any pillar. Even the mildest of whispers can be heard across a distance of 37 m in the Whispering Gallery. The acoustical phenomenon of this dome is such that a sound is echoed eleven times over. You have to listen in silence to appreciate the Gol Gumbaz. Under the dome are the tombs of the Sultan, his two wives, his mistress Ramba, his daughter and grandson.

There are steps to go up the Gumbaz. Off the 4 minarets, 3 are closed. People interested can use the one that is open to get to the top. From the top, you can get the most beautiful view of Bijapur city, and you can also see the Citadel walls, with the watch towers are regular distances.

The building complex includes a mosque, a Naqqar Khana, a gateway and a dharmashala. The edifice in front of the tomb has been converted into a museum.

Archeological Museum - The Archaeological Museum located in the gatehouse of the Gol Gumbaz has a vast collection of Chinese porcelain, parchments, paintings, armoury, miniatures, stone sculptures and old Bijapur carpets are all housed here. The museum is open on all days from 10 am to 5 pm, except Fridays. Entrance is free.

Ibrahim Rouza - Rauza literally means a tomb with an attached mosque and garden. The square enclosure consists of 2 buildings, one housing the tombs of Ibrahim Adil Shah II & his family & the other a mosque.

The tomb, evidently executed under the orders of Ibrahim Adil Shah (1580-1627) is noted for its striking symmetry of proportion, minars and domes. It is supposed to have been an inspiration for the Taj Mahal at Agra. Yes, the Ibrahim Rouza is like two Taj Mahals and a garden and waterway in the middle. It is supposed to have been designed by a Iranian architect. The complex contains mosque, water ways with lake, basement quarters and secret passages. The gardens are well laid out. The architect is supposed to be buried close to the sultan.

An acoustic feature in this complex is worth mentioning. If you are standing at the mausoleum by the grave side of the Sultan, you can distinctly hear the prayers being said at the other end, in the prayer hall.

Burj-E-Sherz - Home to the famous 8.5 m-long Malik-e-Maidan cannon (Lord of the Battle field). It was used in the battle of Talikot, when the Vijayanagar Empire fell. It is one of the largest medieval guns ever made.

The muzzle is a lion's head with open jaws with an elephant being crushed to death inside. The weapon is said to keep a cool head even in the blazing heat of the sun. When tapped it gives out a soft humming sound. Legend has it that if you touch the gun and make a wish, it will come true!

Bara Kaman - This unfinished mausoleum of Ali Adil Shah, if completed, might have surpassed all others of its kind. Its 12 graceful arches which give it the name Bara Kamaan, makes one feel the power of time & death. These arches are amidst a public garden.

Juma Masjid - Called Jumma Masjid because the Khutba is recited here on Jumma ie. Friday, it is the largest & first constructed mosque in Bijapur. It was built in 1576, the largest mosque in India, by Ali Adil Shah, who acquired the land after defeating the rich Ramaraja of Vijayanagar.

The total area of the mosque is 10,810 sq m. Aurangzeb extended the mosque in the east, the south & the north verandah & built the eastern gate. The original gateway is on the northern side. The heavy curtain hangs over the "Mehrab", which has domes which are onion shaped, minarets, niches with books, flower vases & Persian writings in calligraphy ( Koranic Verses ) inscribed on it.

The other places that can be visited at Bijapur are Mahtar Mahal, Taj Bawdi, Assar Mahal, Gagan Mahal and the Citadel. I decided to spend just 1 day in Bijapur and the auto driver told us that there was no point visiting the mahals are they are in a very dilapidated stage. We did not visit them.

Bijapur is a great place for all those who read up the history books before going to a historic city. Simply landing up there is no fun at all. I had read about Adil Shah in the history books in school, but there was just one small paragraph about him. The Mughal era takes away the majority of space in Indian History books. The Archeological museum has a lot of stuff that Adil Shah used, his clothes, battle outfit, swords, daggers etc. This stuff is soo huge, I am sure Adil Shah must have been a tall and well built man. His sword is so big, if we were to even lift it today, 4 well built men would be required.

Apart from these palaces and mosques, there is nothing much. The town is small and the life here is laid back. There are lots of road side vendors who sell ceramic ware. If you are the type of person who loves to bargain and buy stuff, this is the place. I bought lots of ethnic porcelain my house.

All the monuments here are protected monuments, but they are not maintained neatly. There is gobar and goat shit all over the place. Apart from the mosques that are in use even today, most of the palaces are full of miscreants, just hanging out there. And, there are not many tourists who come here. None of the Indians have the inclination to go to a town like Bijapur. And the foreigners don’t think beyond Delhi, Agra, Jaipur, Manali and Goa. So, unless the Karnataka Tourism Department does something to promote Bijapur, the monuments will not get better attention and care.

But, none the less, if you love to backpack, read up a history book, and wish to go in search of something, like in my case, I wanted to see the Gol Gumbaz, I suggest the next time around you get 3 days off, just go to Bijapur. You will realize, why India is rich in history, culture and diversity.

Getting There :

By Air : The nearest airport is Belgaum(205 kms), which is well connected to Mumbai and Bangalore.

By Rail : Bijapur is well connected to Bangalore, Mumbai (via Solapur) ; Hyderabad (via Solapur or Hotgi Jn); Hospet (via Gadag) ; Vasco da Gama (via Hubli and Londa).

By Road : Bijapur is well connected to many cities in south and west india, notably.
Sholapur ( 101 Kms ), Gulbarga ( about 120 kms ), Belgaum ( 205 kms ), Hyderbad ( 420 kms ), Mumbai ( 500 kms ) & Bangalore ( 530 kms )

Local Transport : Autos, Taxis

Trip duration : 3 days

Best time : North Karnataka is usually hot throughout the year. The best time is between Oct and Feb.

Where to stay :

Hotel Madhuvan - 08352- 55571, Hotel Samrat - 08352- 21620, Hotel Tourist - 08352- 20655. Megharaj - 08352- 25571, Rajadhani - 08352- 2334468, Sasnman - 08352- 21866. All of these are on Station Road.

Hotel Sagar - 08352- 59234. Barah Kaman Road

KSTDC's Hotel Mayura Adil Shahi – Anand Mahal Road

Note : The details pertaining to History and the monuments that I mentioned in this travelogue are from history books and websites that I have read. They are mostly accurate.